The King Is Dead...

Coronation day today!! The school has closed early as a result. I thought something was afoot, as during the last couple of days, a big clean up operation has been undertaken around the football pitch, and along the road. Grass was cut and all rocks were splatted with white paint. A banner went up yesterday proclaiming the event, with a 12pm PROMPT start- most unusual for Africa. Sure enough it kicks off on time on the pitch and an ever increasing crowd watches events unfold. A lot of tents and seats have been arranged, though we manage to pick the worst seats in the house, right in the sunshine.

After nine years of waiting ( not sure why it has taken so long) the local village of Bitingi is to receives its new chief. He is Nje (John) Makosa, a 40 year old school principal. Makosa has been chosen by the local king makers after very careful consideration. A shot gun starts the four hour proceedings. Local choirs from nearby are there to entertain and welcome guests, and they sing often throughout the course of the afternoon.

A group of witch doctors are one of the first to make an appearance. They are dressed in traditional costumes. One of them is tucking into a beer bottle- yes he is eating the glass- whilst another has a live chicken strapped to his back. By the look in his eyes, the oldest one of them has clearly been on the funny stuff, and I find it just a little unsettling that this guy has one of the local shotguns for the rest of the afternoon. The strange throng of characters bless the area of the coronation, before dancing off.

All the local chiefs are gathered for the event and are distinguishable by their brown skull caps, laced with seashells, and their bundles of sticks, which look remarkably like a small broom. There are about 30 in all and they sit together in one of the tents watching the proceedings. Occasionally, one of them will get up to help with a ceremony, tell a story or make a speech. One of the older ones has a real penchant for dancing, doing so whenever he can. This delights the crowd.

The best seats in the house (bottled water and flowers) are still to be taken. Originally, I thought these would be for the chiefs, but even in such a traditional event as this, the local government officials still hold sway. The Sub-divisional Officer of Buea arrives part way through the ceremony in his military uniform, along with other people in military uniforms and suits. They arrive to sing the national anthem, and take their seats afterwards. These bureaucrats have involvement and influence in the election process, and such activities must clearly have worn the main man out. He doesn't really look in the least bit interested in events. People still defer to his status and parts of the event are focused towards him.

I must admit to being slightly concious of the number of men wandering around with loaded and "unbroken" shotguns. They just point them in any direction they feel like, and fire them at very random moments, singlehandedly. One of the military figures in the VIP entourage eventually furiously chases one of them away. The perpetrator melts into the crowd rather sheepishly.

Some tradtionally dressed male warriors arrive along with three Ju-Ju men. The Ju Ju are scary spiritual figures. One of them has a huge head with horns. Quite striking. After they have finished dancing and singing, there is yet more speeches, more singing and more dancing. The chief leaves the arena to go to the ancestral home in the village where he will be properly inagugrated. The other chiefs leave with them, and return thereafter. Shortly afterwards, there is the usual announcement asking someone to move their car: "Will the owner of the vehicle registered SW4476 23 please remove their motor from the new chief's parking space".

The new chief takes his place on his throne in a small grass covered hut, with elephant tusks at the entrance. A kingmaker sits either side of him. He is now properly installed. His official title is His Royal Highness, Chief 3rd class. I'm not sure how the regal system works or whether it is taken seriously by the officialdom, but the villagers are quite content by it existence. I do know that the long wait for the new chief has been a cause of concern for some time in the village. It's certainly a day to celebrate and a fantastic part of local heritage to be involved in.

The ceremony draws to a close late afternoon and then it's back to the school for some food and drink, laid on by the villagers. At events such as this, and weddings, you never pay for anything not even the drinks. It is all very generously laid on for you. Availibility can often be a bit sparse. There are so many people needing to be catered for, and getting a Castel can be a bit of a bun fight. It's the very much the fast or last principle. I'm delighted to get a plate this time, and even a plastic spoon.

Fed and watered, I walk back to downtown with Simon, a member of the crowd, and part time volunteer at the nearby orphanage in Bokova. He's studying at the moment to become an engineer, and is keen on helping the orphans, as he himself is one. He's very good company and it's good to share the experiences of what has been a tremendous afternoon.